Browsing by Subject "kansanpuku"

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  • Lindén, Maria (Helsingin yliopisto, 2020)
    The stiffened cap has a paper frame, which is usually covered with silk fabric. The cap includes a ribbon bow and a lace trim. Caps with such a lace trim are called styckemössa in Swedish and tykkimyssy in Finnish. The aim of the study was to evaluate the of stiffened caps at the Brage costumes museum and to deepen the knowledge of the manufacture and use of caps by peasant women in the 18th and 19th centuries. The aim was to gain additional knowledge about the caps specifically in the Finland-Swedish costume culture, as well as new information on materials and the manufacture of stiffened caps in general and specifically about metal embroidered caps. In what way does the Brage collection of stiffened caps contribute to the overall picture of the Finland-Swedish peasant women's headdress? In connoisseurship analysis, the rich source material of the museum and previous knowledge were combined with practical experiments and laboratory examinations. There were 97 caps left in the collection, as well as a silk piece with gold and sequin embroidery. A significance analysis was executed based on the catalogued data and photographs. The metal embroidered fabric piece was examined by microscope and a metal analysis was conducted. The construction of the caps was examined from a craft perspective, as well as how they could be manufactured with current materials and knowledge. The cap collection opened an interesting path into the life and attire of peasant women, and above all into the importance of the stiffened cap. The collection offers a good overall picture of the development of the Finland-Swedish stiffened cap from large and heart-shaped to small with a straight front. An interesting find was nine caps from eastern Uusimaa with almost identical shape but fashioned using different fabrics. A specialty of the collection is the four caps of printed linen and the metal embroidered silk piece. The manufacture of a stiffened cap is a time-consuming craft that requires skill in everything from the manufacture of the paper frame, the embroidery and finally the mounting. The micrographs and the analysis of the metal embroidered fabric provided detailed information that was utilized in the manufacture a new cap for the Munsala traditional costume.
  • Rossow, Rauna (Helsingin yliopisto, 2019)
    The Finnish settlement has stayed in Ingria since the 17th Century. They formed two groups, Äyrämöinen and Savakko. These minorities were different from each other by their dialect, religion and dressing. The focus of this study is on Ingrian Finnish, especially the Savakko textile culture. Research material includes the textile collection of Ingrian Finnish Raija Pedak, her interviews, photographs, writings, newspaper cuttings, proofs and drawings. Comparison is based on objects found from the National Museums Finno-Ugric collections. Research is made by following the craft history in one family through four generations. This study examines textiles from Eastern Ingrian Järvisaari, especially the ritual cloth käspaikka, and the folk costume, their techniques and meanings. The aim of this study is to find out how the Pedak`s collection can reinforce studies of the Savakko textile culture in the early 1900s with new knowledge. After the groups of Savakko and Äyrämöinen assimilated, Ingrian Finnishness formed the primary ethnic identity. This study follows one family and the meanings given to crafts in changing historical contexts, from rural Ingria to the revolution and crises of the Soviet period and finally to the national awakening of the Ingrian Finns. The significance analysis method, created originally for museum objects, was applied in this study. The analysis follows different stages, starting with preparation. Then, research material is put in its broad historical context. After familiarization and data acquisition the research material is evaluated with seven criteria. These are representativeness, authenticity, historical and cultural significance, memorable significance, communal significance, ideal situation and usability. As a result, the study shows that the characteristic handcrafting can be understood as a key symbol of Ingrian Finnishness among with the Finnish language and Lutheranism. The folk costume and other textiles have significant position upholding the Ingrian Finnish culture. They played significant part especially during the perestroika and the national awakening of the Ingrian Finns. Notable in the Pedak`s research material are particularly the ritual cloth käspaikka in Lutheran home and the kitska-headdress as a part of the Savakko folk costume.
  • Inkiläinen, Jaana (Helsingin yliopisto, 2020)
    The premise of the thesis was to study Finland’s folk costume’s most prominent aspects and develop learning material based on those aspects. I started by reviewing literature connected to the topic about teaching materials. Based on the results, I concluded that quite a bit of research has been done about folk costumes’ history, and there exists a fairly extensive amount of literature about it. However, there wasn’t that much teaching material available about folk costumes, even though a need for it has been recognized. Therefore, the mission for my thesis became to develop introductory teaching material about folk costumes for beginners. The goal for this thesis is to develop a folk costume manual, that offers an extensive information packet for beginners, along with instructions for wearing and acquiring one. As a research method I chose design-based research which consists of developing the teaching material and the theory of its development. I started the development of the manual by mapping out, what meanings are associated with folk costumes. This was carried out by interviewing four experts. The results were narratives of their experiences around folk costumes. These narratives were divided into categories to be used as material for the first draft of developing the manual, along with literary reviews. The first draft was tested by a heuristic review, in which three of the assessors of the previous step were evaluating the manual by making notes about ideas for developments and other comments. A heuristic list was offered to support the evaluation. Then, the notes were summarized into comments, and the experts classified them based on their prominence. The manual was developed based on the comments, if the experts estimated the problem to be significant. The result of the design-based research is a folk costume manual, and information about the development process. An expert interview and a heuristic evaluation proved to be functional methods for developing this type of learning material. Two themes were highlighted in relation to folk costumes in the experts’ comments: Way of speaking and vocabulary with which the costumes’ instructions and recommendations are being described, and versatility of the folk costumes. These themes had a significant impact on the folk costume manual as well.
  • Liikkanen, Kirsi (Helsingfors universitet, 2016)
    The object of this study was the Finnish folk costumes used as work clothes at the Seurasaari Open-Air Museum. The museum's wardrobe had many shortcomings so there was a clear need for a study analyzing and enhancing the situation. The purpose of this study is to find out what kind of outfits should be designed for the staff of the open-air museum in order to meet requirements both for work clothes and folk dresses. Since the open-air museum is simultaneously a cultural history museum and a place of work, the dresses should be not only as historically authentic as possible but also practical as work clothes as far as comfort and maintenance are concerned. Due to the practical nature of the subject, the chosen method of study was design research, in which the design process moves forward in stages based on empirical knowledge. At the first stage of the study, the situation was outlined by making an inventory of museum's wardrobe and interviewing the keeper of the museum. At the second stage, the insights of the staff on their work clothes were reviewed through a survey. In the third stage the objective was to take into consideration both aesthetic and technical viewpoints of possible design solutions. Finally, a practical effort was made to combine these viewpoints regarding the folk dresses and work clothes by sewing the prototypes of two pieces of clothing that are a part of the work outfits. As a result of the study, the proposals for two outfits for two different museum houses were created. In addition to the results of the stages presented earlier, literature and pictures of folk dresses were used as support in the design process. Due to economical reasons, one of the outfits is also usable in two other museum houses. Since there is plenty of information available on both folk dresses and work clothes, it is possible to design outfits that meet the needs of the museum even though it sometimes requires compromises between authenticity and comfort. In addition, the results of this study can be used for rearranging and restocking the museum's wardrobe.
  • Ilomäki, Wiivi (Helsingin yliopisto, 2021)
    This is a research of the use and manufacture of Finland's various folk costumes and its related meanings. You can see folk costume in Finland rarely, although in many places people are still using them a lot. In dressing it is its own world to use the folk costume. The study had three research issues that were used to investigate the matter. Research issues investigated different meanings of folk costumes for their users and analyzed what the folk costumes means its user and manufacturer. The study analyzed what kind of things people can attach to use of the folk costumes. The study research what kind of role crafts had when people are making the folk costumes and whether handicrafts are needed in the manufacture of folk costume. At the beginning of the study, two theme interviews had been conducted to the people who are working with the folk costumes and based on these theme interviews, an internet-based questionnaire was prepared. The questionnaire was assigned to the target group in social media. In Facebook there are groups, with members of the people who are interested in folk costumes and many of them use folk costumes regularly. 78 people responded to the questionnaire. The study material was analyzed by a qualitative and quantitative method. Based on this investigation, it was found that the folk costume and its utilization played great importance to their users. Each user had its own meaning to the use of the folk costume, but in the investigation, the biggest importance rose to bringing their own family roots. The use of folk costume joined the user's identity, as its use is a very visible communication. In the study, it was clear that hobbies have a great role in the manufacture of folk costumes, as many defendants reported that they were a handicraft enthusiast but felt to be too novice to make a challenging folk costume for themselves.
  • Ruokamo, Satu (Helsingin yliopisto, 2018)
    This study discusses tanu headdresses of Finnish folk costume. Tanu was a white cloth cap worn by married women until end of 19th century. Focus of this study is on tanu headdresses from museum collections. From that research expands to general knowledge of tanu headdresses. Previously tanu headdresses were discussed in general studies of Finnish folk costumes and among design processes of Finnish national dresses. First aim of this study was to find craft-based knowledge from tanu headdresses. Second aim was to find general knowledge of tanu headdresses as an object and phenomenon. Third aim was to find out how the chosen research method would work for to study such objects. Research material of this study was 13 tanu headdresses from two museums. Main research method for this study was an own application based on product essence analysis developed by Marketta Luutonen. In first stage in this study researcher approached object as an expert, which differed from Luutonen's analysis. In second stage researcher used her own craft process as a research method. In third stage to help the interpretation, appropriate criteria of the significance analysis for the museum objects was used. As the result of the study, detailed craft-based knowledge was found in tanu headdresses. Among this knowledge was for example construction of the bobbin laces and sewing techniques on tanu headdresses. With the information found from research material and from literature the picture of production and use of tanu headdresses was built. The research method developed for this study was found to work. Luutonen's analysis gave clear guidelines for the study. Researcher's own craft process gave deeper knowledge of construction and production of tanu headdresses than viewing the objects itself or pictures of the objects.