Browsing by Subject "kirjonta"

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  • Lindén, Maria (Helsingin yliopisto, 2020)
    The stiffened cap has a paper frame, which is usually covered with silk fabric. The cap includes a ribbon bow and a lace trim. Caps with such a lace trim are called styckemössa in Swedish and tykkimyssy in Finnish. The aim of the study was to evaluate the of stiffened caps at the Brage costumes museum and to deepen the knowledge of the manufacture and use of caps by peasant women in the 18th and 19th centuries. The aim was to gain additional knowledge about the caps specifically in the Finland-Swedish costume culture, as well as new information on materials and the manufacture of stiffened caps in general and specifically about metal embroidered caps. In what way does the Brage collection of stiffened caps contribute to the overall picture of the Finland-Swedish peasant women's headdress? In connoisseurship analysis, the rich source material of the museum and previous knowledge were combined with practical experiments and laboratory examinations. There were 97 caps left in the collection, as well as a silk piece with gold and sequin embroidery. A significance analysis was executed based on the catalogued data and photographs. The metal embroidered fabric piece was examined by microscope and a metal analysis was conducted. The construction of the caps was examined from a craft perspective, as well as how they could be manufactured with current materials and knowledge. The cap collection opened an interesting path into the life and attire of peasant women, and above all into the importance of the stiffened cap. The collection offers a good overall picture of the development of the Finland-Swedish stiffened cap from large and heart-shaped to small with a straight front. An interesting find was nine caps from eastern Uusimaa with almost identical shape but fashioned using different fabrics. A specialty of the collection is the four caps of printed linen and the metal embroidered silk piece. The manufacture of a stiffened cap is a time-consuming craft that requires skill in everything from the manufacture of the paper frame, the embroidery and finally the mounting. The micrographs and the analysis of the metal embroidered fabric provided detailed information that was utilized in the manufacture a new cap for the Munsala traditional costume.
  • Suutari, Maria (Helsingin yliopisto, 2020)
    The sampler is a work which has helped girls to practice sewing and embroidery for centuries. It is not common to sew them anymore, but there are lots of old samplers in museum collections. This study discusses the samplers at the Helsinki University Museum Craft Science Collection. The collection has been accumulated within textiles teacher education in Helsinki since the late 19th century. Most of the objects are practice works made by students in textiles teacher education. While both the Craft Science Collection and single objects of the collection have previously been studied, the samplers and the collection formed by them have been less focused on. The aim of this study was to survey the samplers of the Craft Science Collection and to analyze meanings related to sampler as a needlework and to the collection formed by the samplers. The study was carried out by using the Significance analysis method which is originally created for museum objects. The method consists of the stages of preparation, data acquisition, familiarization and contextualization. Then, the research material is evaluated with seven criteria: representativeness, authenticity, historical and cultural significance, memorable significance, communal significance, ideal situation and usability. As a result, the study shows that sampler as a needlework conveyed traditions and values. As part of studies of textiles teacher education, it functioned as practice work which formed identity and connected generations from the late 19th century until the early 20th century. The collection of samplers was found to have especially communal, historical and cultural significance. This collection conveys information about handicrafts, craft education and textiles teacher education of the past – and about the values behind them. The collection would have potential to act as teaching, exhibition or research material, but in some cases, the absence of context information may complicate it.
  • Suomela, Jenni (Helsingin yliopisto, 2020)
    Tutkielma käsittelee phulkari-tekstiilejä Punjabin alueelta Intiasta ja Pakistanista. Phulkari on isokokoinen huivi, jolla nainen peittää päänsä osana pukeutumista. Phulkarit on koristeltu näyttävän näköisellä, koko huivin täyttävällä kirjonnalla, jossa käytetään ensisijaisesti laakapistoja. Phulkarit ovat alun perin olleet erityisesti häihin liittyviä tekstiilejä, joilla on ollut rituaalinen merkitys. Niiden valmistaminen on ollut hidasta ja ne ovat olleet perintökalleuksia sekä myötäjäistekstiilejä. 1800-luvun lopulta lähtien niitä on kuitenkin valmistettu myyntiin. Vuoden 1947 jako Intiaan ja Pakistaniin hävitti tradition ainakin alkuperäisessä muodossaan, joskin kirjontaperinnettä on ylläpidetty pienimuotoisesti kotona työskentelevien naisten työllistäjänä. Tutkielman aineistona ovat kuusi phulkari-tekstiiliä Suomen Kansallismuseon etnografisista kokoelmista. Neljä tekstiileistä on varsinaisia phulkari-huiveja, kaksi muita käyttötekstiilejä, joissa on phulkari-kirjontaa. Näitä tekstiilejä on tutkittu esinetutkimuksen menetelmin, soveltaen kysymyssarjaa, jolla saadaan yksityiskohtaista tietoa tekstiileiden valmistuksesta ja siinä käytetyistä tekniikoista. Jo valmista esinetutkimuksen kysymyssarjaa, joka oli suunnattu pukeutumisen tutkimukseen, muokattiin niin, että se soveltui paremmin etnografisille tekstiileille. Siihen lisättiin myös mikroskopian osuus millä saatiin aiempaa tarkempia tuloksia, langoista, kankaiden rakenteista, kirjontapistoista, sekä käytetyistä materiaaleista ja niiden kunnosta. Mikroskopian tutkimuslaitteina käytettiin USB-porttiin liitettävää Dino-Lite - mikroskooppia, sekä läpivalaisumikroskooppia kuitunäytteille. Lähitarkastelun kautta jo tekstiilihistoriallisesti tunnetuista phulkari-huiveista saatiin uutta tietoa mikroskopian ja tarkan esinetutkimuksellisen analyysin avulla. Vaikka tutkimusaineisto oli pieni, niin se edusti lähes kaikkia phulkarien yleisimpiä tyylisuuntia. Tutkimusta varten muokatulla kysymyssarjalla on varmasti käyttöä myös tulevaisuudessa erilaisten tekstiilien lähitarkastelussa.
  • Nikkari, Krista (Helsingin yliopisto, 2018)
    Objectives. The objective of this study was to research how handicraft in contemporary art can weaken traditional gendered structures. There’s been active discussion of gender equality in the early years of the 21st century. History has had a big impact on how handicraft is regarded and how gendered it has been. Previous studies has shown that textilecrafts in the 21st century has also artistic value, not only practical value. In this study I consider handcraft’s impact on gendered structures in the context of art. Methods. The theoretical background of this thesis is based on an interview of an specialist and on relevant research literature. The research material consisted of Noora Schroderus (a Finnish sculptor) artworks which included embroidery. The research method used for qualitative content analysis was hermeneutic research method. By using content analysis I made interpretations on the artworks. Results. When researching art, one can not reach final interpretations on art works. When looking at the artworks through qualitative content analysis, it became clear that the most rewarding way of interpreting artworks is from their contexts. Through the analysis it is possible to find four different contexts where the embroidery of the artworks occur and weakens the gendered structures. These four contexts were the artwork in the hands of the artist, the artwork in exhibitions and the interaction between the artwork and the viewer and the society. Through handicraft in the arts it is possible to weaken the deep-rooted paradigms and norms. In the context of art, handicraft is seen more widely as art and not just as an item. The untypical and interesting material choices of Embroidered banknotes-series attracts the viewer to consider the artworks that weaken the traditional perceptions of the possibilities of handicraft, or more specifically, of embroidery. Thus it is possible to question the gendered structures in the society and build dialogue between different actors. When considered as art, handcraft is more expressive and more appreciated than when considered just as an handcraft item. These study results can not be generalised to other artworks but the results increase awareness of handicrafts possibility to influence art, society and discussion of equality.