Browsing by Subject "vaatetus"

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  • Vaajoki, Vicky (Helsingfors universitet, 2016)
    Change is often viewed as the essence of fashion, but many who operate in the field have observed that certain features and events recur either in a linear, cyclical, swinging or fragmented matter. The purpose of my thesis is to forecast the next 1950s revival by developing and testing a new tool for forecasting. To achieve my goal I examined, if the revivals show common always recurring features and what the similarities and differences are like. I studied the two most recent recurrences in the years 1996 and 2012 by focusing on two retrotrends, apparel and Zeitgeist. The perspective of my thesis was a qualitative and hermeneutic future study. I examined the apparel features with photographs of Chanel's and Dior's collections. For the interpretation of the Zeitgeist factors I used Mitä, missä, milloin -books and collected the research material from the section on culture, news and international politics. For the analysis I employed the hermeneutic circle and two types of qualitative content analysis. On the first round I expanded my pre-understanding and defined the factors with which I grouped, measured and interpreted the material in the content analyses. On rounds two, three and four I analyzed the photographs by applying content analysis of visual images, and examined the text with inductive content analysis. On the fifth and final round I formed the base for my forecast by comparing my expanded understanding and the results of the previous rounds with one another. According to the results the most common characteristic features of the dresses and jackets, in Chanel's and Dior's collections from the years 1996 and 2012, resembled the features of the 1950s. The greatest differences where in the lengths of the sleeves and skirts. All of the Zeitgeist factors recurred in each revival, except for the "racial riots", youth culture and the buy now pay later -mentality. Based on my findings I predict that the common characteristic features of the 1950s apparel and Zeitgeist will recur in the next revival.
  • Helsingin yliopisto, kulttuurien tutkimuksen laitos, folkloristiikka; Suomen Akatemian projekti (Helsingin yliopisto, Kulttuurien tutkimuksen laitos, folkloristiikka, 16.1)
  • Aakko, Maarit (Helsingfors universitet, 2011)
    The concept of sustainable fashion covers not only the ecological and ethical matters in fashion and textile industries but also the cultural and social affairs, which are equally intertwined in this complex network. Sustainable fashion does not have one explicit or well-established definition; however, many researchers have discussed it from different perspectives. This study provides an overview of the principals, practices, possibilities, and challenges concerning sustainable fashion. It focuses particularly on the practical questions a designer faces. The aim of this study was to answer the following questions: What kind of outlooks and practices are included in sustainable fashion? How could the principles of sustainable fashion be integrated into designing and making clothes? The qualitative study was carried out by using the Grounded Theory method. Data consisted mainly of academic literature and communication with designers who practice sustainable fashion. In addition to these, several websites and journalistic articles were used. The data was analyzed by identifying and categorizing relevant concepts using the constant comparative method, i.e. examining the internal consistency of each category. The study established a core category, around which all other categories are integrated. The emerged concepts were organized into a model that pieces together different ideas about sustainable fashion, namely, when the principles of sustainable development are applied to fashion practices. The category named Considered Take and Return is the core of the model. It consists of various design philosophies that form the basis of design practice, and thus it relates to all other categories. It is framed by the category of Attachment and Appreciation, which reflects the importance of sentiment in design practice, for example the significance of aesthetics. The categories especially linked to fashion are Materials, Treatments of Fabrics and Production Methods. The categories closely connected with sustainable development are Saving Resources, Societal Implications, and Information Transparency. While the model depicts separate categories, the different segments are in close interaction. The objective of sustainable fashion is holistic and requires all of its sections to be taken into account.
  • Pulli, Mirja (Helsingfors universitet, 2015)
    The purpose of this study is to examine how fashion companies can prolong the life-cycle of textile products after the production phase. The study aims to answer the following questions: How does the fashion companies advice consumers to prolong the life-cycle of textile products? How does the fashion companies utilize the textile waste? The theory is based on the life-cycle of textile products and how it can be effected. In addition the theory focus on producers' responsibilities towards sustainability and textile waste. Also the consumers and the decisions they make are crucial when the aim is to prolong the life-cycle of textile products. The research data was collected from 15 websites of different fashion companies. I focused on international fashion chain stores, which sell fast fashion for women. The study was executed by using the qualitative content analysis. The aim of the analysis was to identify the instructions the fashion companies give to consumer in order to prolong the life-cycle of textile products. The second goal was to categorize the ways companies utilize textile waste. The results of the study show four instructions given to the consumers. The companies' advice is to consider the decisions, take care of the textile products, wash them correctly and avoid producing waste. The companies' utilized textile waste in five different ways: selling the textiles to another company, giving them to charity, utilizing waste for a new collection, producing new textile fibers or using waste as a source of energy. The main result of the study is that the information regarding the life-cycle of textile products is difficult to find. Main issues of the fashion companies are lack of transparency and capability to share information. The companies have goals and instructions related to sustainability, but more concrete advices are needed. The difference between recycle and reuse is not clear enough. Prolonging the life-cycle is not easy since the environmental effects of different choices are difficult to determine. Also the innovative business models are not exploited. The study established a model of the main content on the web site. The model recommends concrete guidance, tips for use and to emphasize recycle, reuse and removal phases. The model recommends to offer services, being responsible, listening and motivating customers and improving the marketing.
  • Yli-Heikkilä, Eveliina Janita; Autio, Minna; Kylkilahti, Eliisa; Räisänen, Riikka; Sekki, Sanna (2020)
    Värit ovat keskeinen osa kuluttajien arkipäivän kokemusmaailmaa. Me syömme ja puemme päällemme värejä sekä elämme värien keskellä. Värien merkitystä kuluttajien arjessa tutkitaan paljolti visuaalisesta näkökulmasta erilaisiin tuotteisiin ja brändimielikuviin liittyen. Myös muotivärit ovat saaneet osakseen tutkimuksellista mielenkiintoa. Sen sijaan kuluttajien näkemyksiä väreistä raaka-aineina ja osana kulutustuotteita ei ole tutkittu samaan tapaan kuin niitä on tutkittu ruoassa. Tarkastelemme laadullisella tutkimusotteella kuluttajien (n=15) synteettisiin ja luonnonväriaineisiin liittämiä mielikuvia vaatteissa ja tekstiileissä. Tutkimus osoittaa, että väriaineiden alkuperän pohtiminen on kuluttajille vierasta, mutta väri raaka-aineena ja materiana yhdistyy tuotteiden turvallisuuteen, luonnollisuuteen ja ekologisuuteen. Kuluttajat ovat huolissaan, voivatko tekstiileissä käytetyt väriaineet olla ihmisen terveydelle haitallisia. Synteettiset väriaineet yhdistyvät kemianteollisuuteen, haitallisuuteen, myrkyllisyyteen sekä värien keinotekoisuuteen, voimakkuuteen ja kirkkauteen. Kuluttajat mieltävät luonnonväriaineet synteettisiä väriaineita luonnollisemmiksi, ekologisemmiksi ja turvallisemmiksi. Eettisyyden ja turvallisuuden näkökulmasta kuluttajat pitävät hyväksyttävämpänä kasviperäisiä lähteitä hyönteisiin verrattuna. Tulokset auttavat ymmärtämään biopohjaisten väriaineiden käyttöönoton myönteisiä ja rajoittavia näkökohtia kulutustuotteissa.